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Unraveling the IHH
by Jeffrey Dastin: The lobby is small. A front desk, two couches, a flat-screen TV, and a large water well. A stairway leads to a few floors of offices and conference...
Untying the Knots
By Diana Saverin: Ramazan Can’s shop in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is world-famous for its traditional Turkish rugs. (Saverin/TYG) “Beautiful lady! Would you...
An Underground Escape
by Erin Biel: “Just the other day, a boy ran past here, yelling, ‘top, top’ (‘faggot, faggot’) at me. It would have been slightly better if it had...
Q&A: A Conversation with Bedri Baykam
Bedri Baykam is a Turkish artist and political activist for the Republican People’s Part (CHP). He was a candidate for the presidency of his party in October...
Struggling to Speak
by Jessica Shor: Recent reforms ended the longtime ban on the Kurdish language in Turkey. But some Kurds continue the struggle to gain full language rights. Though...
All Quiet on the Northern Front
by Sanjena Sathian: Hey cousin! Which way do you want to go?” Mustafa Tunçbilek calls his best friend, Marios Epaminondes, “cousin.” The two could be related—their...
Four Men and a Muse
By Charlotte Parker: The heart of Tünel, Istanbul’s music district, beats with the tentative sounds of customers testing out instruments and the rhythms from...
Changing Tides
By Sera Tolgay: Fishing rods line Istanbul’s Galata Bridge, the fresh smell of the sea breeze permeates the city’s fish markets, and the waterfront bustles as...
Youth in Revolt
By Ali Friedman: Most people do not think that Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan resembles Adolf Hitler. But Adnan Türkken certainly sees him that way....